Jamaica's Reggae Sumfest is rite of passage for reggae, dancehall and soundsystem lovers

For an island the size of Jamaica to have such a seismic impact on popular culture shouldn’t be all that surprising, particularly given the country’s motto: “Out of many, one people.” Having grown up in the UK and raised on a heavy diet of reggae and soundsystem culture, to visit the source was more than a special moment, it was a necessity. 

The Jamaica Tourist Board has been making a concerted effort to boost global interest in the country and this year, Reggae Sumfest in Montego Bay was the marquee cultural event to hinge its campaign on. After all, few countries the size of Jamaica have managed to shape global culture in the way that it is. 

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That so many flew to Jamaica specifically for Reggae Sumfest speaks to its legacy and influence for over 30 years. Suppose Glastonbury is a representation of contemporary British music, the same can be said for Sumfest in Jamaica, and although it doesn’t possess the scale of the Worthy Farm festival, it should be a rite of passage for reggae, dancehall and soundsystem lovers. 

Before the festivities truly began on the Friday evening, audiences were treated to Global Fete, a modern day sound clash between Tony Matterhorn and Notorious International Sound, represented by Notorious Shabba. The event was a changing of the guard moment, and the entire audience felt it. On any other day, Tony Matterhorn would’ve been considered the winner and there were some in the crowd that felt so. But Notorious opened with 'Jah Is My Keeper' by Peter Tosh which sent the tone. Matterhorn took the levels up a notch in the second round with a fiery lyrical display. Notorious then called on Masicka to provide a dubplate while Matterhorn leant on his veteran status and legacy, but ultimately, it was the former who walked away victorious. The torch had been passed on and set the next few days up with high energy.

On the first day of the festival, you could feel that the mood was stirring across the city. Roads were jammed with traffic, street vendors had set up early and the Secrets Resort, which is a stone’s throw from the event grounds, began to swell with people arriving for the weekend. If Global Fete felt like Christmas Eve, then day one surely felt like Christmas Day for reggae and dancehall lovers. The festival site itself was compact and not too sprawling, especially with one stage. With there being a culture of arriving fashionably late, few expected the ground to get busy before midnight, but it meant that there was a steady flow of people arriving up until the main event with Vybz Kartel scheduled to perform at 4:AM. 

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As Vybz Kartel has been carrying out his welcome back tour across the world, following his release from prison, the excitement and anticipation for his performance was palpable. More importantly, his performance exceeded all expectations. You could forgive the Worl’ Boss for missing a step, being away from live performance for over a decade but the dancehall icon cruised through his well-known anthems and deep cuts.

His performance was a masterclass in fan service and theatre. Though an intended crowning moment was marred when Vybz Kartel’s coronation as ‘King of Dancehall’ was unduly interrupted by a stampede, injuring 20 people. Festival organisers responded in a timely fashion, issuing a statement the morning after the event, ensuring that protocols would be put in place to avoid a repeat occurrence on the following night. The extent of the injuries hasn’t yet been confirmed, as per The Gleaner, but the incident led to security reworking the exits for a safer, albeit slower, departure. Tommy Lee’s performance was affected by the stampede that preceded; many left the festival grounds as he was about to go on stage, with the conclusion to the night slightly blemished.

A younger generation of dancehall stars brought their all and showed the future of the sound is in good hands, with notable highlights from the two-day event including Portmore native Masicka, Aidonia protégé Govana, 'Gvnman Shift' hit-maker Skeng, while roots and contemporary reggae were well represented by I Wayne and Protoje respectively, with Lila Iké shining among reggae's younger guard. 

The second night brought a visibly older and no sign of repeat problems. Toni Braxton, an R&B superstar well-loved by fans in Jamaica since her debut self-titled album, released in 1993, was one of the night’s crown jewels. Braxton opened with a nod to Burna Boy’s 2022 hit ‘Last Last’, before flowing seamlessly straight into ‘He Wasn’t Man Enough’. 

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Despite her stage presence showing no signs of waning or age, Braxton’s vocal performance wasn’t able to match the excitement fans had due to issues with her microphone and lip-syncing for most of it. The R&B singer’s vocal and health issues have been well-documented, and as she was a late addition to the line-up, the crowd was understanding of that. That said, ending her performance with ‘Unbreak My Heart’ ensured a nostalgic and memorable end to the festival.

In light of Jamaica’s widespread infatuation with Celine Dion, with many often joking that the Canadian is an honorary Jamaican, Reggae Sumfest has an opportunity to bring her to the next iteration of the event, especially as she is currently working to get her voice back to full health. 

Beyond the Sumfest, many took the time to visit Nine Miles, the town where Bob Marley was born and later laid to rest, which possesses a mysticism in the air. It’s not often you’ll find a musical icon buried in a mausoleum on the grounds where they were born. His presence was felt as soon as you walked through the gates, from his childhood bedroom to the garden where he would sit for hours. Where Bob Marley has become a global symbol, to visit his family home is to know him more intimately. 

While Kingston is home to iconic labels such as VP Records and Studio One, Montego Bay is an ideal gateway into the country’s culture for those looking to ease their way in. Outside of the festival, attractions such as Dunn’s River, Ras Natango Gallery and Garden and Martha Brae River accentuate the city’s rural nature. Compared to the country’s capital, Mobay offers a slower, more serene window into Jamaican lifestyle and culture. 

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It’s no accident that Jamaica remains at the epicentre of global music culture, that mysticism referenced earlier feels thick in the air. The land, it seems, provides more than enough inspiration. The fact that Jamaicans have created some of the world's richest culture is typically misunderstood in the Global West, and as its colonial history and Britain’s imperialism influence much of the perception of Jamaica, to be there is to feel why its people are so proud and will fly the flag when given the opportunity. Coming from London with Notting Hill Carnival just over the horizon, it was important to be reminded where it all began, especially as the country continues to represent joy and resistance for the Jamaican diaspora. 

Jesse Bernard is a freelance writer, follow him on Twitter