Features
Underground: the club that won Ibiza by letting the music do the talking
If you know then you know
Our taxi passes a giant, illuminated U on the side of the motorway and our destination for the evening is revealed. We pull up to an unassuming complex, gorgeous party people scattered outside, chatting and taking in the scenery.
As we enter the venue, many more bodies are moving to the music being played inside. Sumptuous tech and glitchy house has the room winding and twisting – all of this and it's only 11pm.
The sounds are seductive and slow but that's just the start point for the evening. As time goes on, the bpm rises and so does the atmosphere. Loud cheers after rolling drops and hands-in-the-air moments come soon enough. But this isn't DC-10, nor Space. No, this is Ibiza Underground, a club that's become the go-to spot for island heads and those who want a proper Ibiza experience since it opened in 2001.
It's off-the-beaten-path San Rafael location means Underground isn't an obvious place to get to, but once you're in, you won't be bothered that you had to do a little exploring to get there. In comparison to nearest clubs Privilege and Amnesia, Underground is tiny. It comprises of a main room that hosts about 1500 dancers, a smaller bar room and a big outdoor terrace where clubbers lounge on sofas, catching their breath and soaking up the Balearic vibes.
The club was originally set up by two brothers, Jesus and Juanito, who both worked at El Divino in Belfast. Jesus was the bar manager there and Juanito the resident DJ. Alongside them was Nick Fry, a music aficionado who had previously been involved with warehouse parties in London and the famous Wednesday nights at Cafe de Paris.
"Our ethos when we started was to support the alternative, less commercial dance music scene, providing an interesting venue with importantly great sound for those seeking something different from the big commercial clubs. DC-10 was the only venue doing this at the time" says Fry.
This is something that's reverberated through the club in the decade and a half it's been open and despite the fact its motto is, unashamedly, 'not for everyone', its sense of belonging and family is striking. It's the destination of choice for workers, locals and purists alike: door tax is a modest 20 euros (including free drink) and the talent in the booth is always on-point.
Musically, Underground doesn't compromise. Although most events don't feature line-ups, you basically know what you're getting every time. Bumping, seductive beats from residents Don Juanito and Nima Gorji are always on offer, both providing a sexy, rolling style of tech-house.
"The music policy has fundamentally been based on providing quality music for discerning clubbers. We have supported and introduced many DJs to the Island who are featured today in the big clubs. Maya Jane Coles played her first set with us at a Dogmatik label night." Fry says.
So it's no surprise then that heroes like Ricardo Villalobos, Rhadoo, Raresh, TiNi, Matthew Jonson and Craig Richards will often be seen both behind the decks and dancing in front of them. Underground's a haven for DJs who want to play records to a crowd that know their shit.
That goes for promoters too: Half Baked and Lola Ed have held parties there this year, as has Archie Hamilton, the London DJ who's currently on a hot streak. The Fuse resident has been leaving a serious stamp on the scene thanks to delectably deep releases that have garnered praise from the likes of Marco Carola and tINI and this summer he launched a night at Underground that's a statement of intent for both him and the club.
"As island regulars, we wanted to make something more low-key and intimate, away from all the fanfare of the super clubs. I have been coming to Underground ever since I first visited the island, and it has been my favourite spot ever since. The ethos is simple; good people in a relaxed environment with great music" Hamilton says.
"Come with a group of friends, and expect to hear some amazing music that you won't hear anywhere else on the island, played by lots of great DJs, some of which you may know very well indeed, and not expect to see there."
Having been a part of the island's rich clubbing history for the last 15 years, it would be hard for the venue not to get dragged into the island's more-than public politics. It's a well-known fact that running and maintaining a club on the island isn't such an easy thing.
Clashing bookings, exclusivity rights, ticket and drinks prices and ownership are all things that each club handles differently but each decision has an effect on the other.
"The island has always been competitive but it was a different type of competition when we started, Space and DC-10 were after-hours clubs. There was more of a scene, and people would go to two or more places when out. It's not like that now," says Fry.
"There's been a big shift especially in the last five years. Things like social media, concierge services, online and pre-holiday ticket sales, police controls and so many venues offering similar events. Ibiza is one big brand and with that comes all the big commercial attachments. There's less discernment, more sheep and it's boring when the big clubs stop DJs from playing at the club."
That aside, Underground hasn't faltered. It's a place for people to escape the mass-markets of the island, to get away from Playa D'en Bossa for an evening of Ibiza in its purest form.
There aren't any VIP areas, you go to party and party the Underground way. There's very little press on the club and that's because it doesn't need it. It attracts the right mix of people without needing a huge campaign plastered across the island. If you know about Ibiza Underground then you know. We'll meet you under the giant U.

